Sew, Seoul Happy [McCall’s 7243].

I like to sew Destination Dresses – when I sew something to wear on an overseas trip.  When I knew MS and I were going to Seoul in South Korea, I decided to make McCall’s 7243 in a thicker knit to wear in the still-cold Springtime there. 

  • Pattern: McCall’s 7243, View D
  • Size made:  AX5 (sizes 4-12 included). I made size 6
  • Pattern pieces: 5 for view D
  • Fabric used: Stable knit with textured ‘braids’ on right side, [83% polyester, 15% viscose, 2% spandex], 138cm width, 2m length, unknown country of origin, bought from Tessuti Fabrics
  • New Techniques used: One piece wrap collar
  • Modifications: Reduced collar width; Hand sewn hems; Refined hip fitting by trying it on, pinching and pinning.
McCall’s M7243. It has a mock wrap collar; Full, 3/4 or no sleeves and can be made as a top or dress. The fabric I used is a textured, sturdy knit.

 

I made View D, which is a long sleeved dress, and no contrast collar colour. Pic from here.

 

Five pattern pieces for View D. Originally I cut a size 6 top grading to size 10 at the hips, as in the above picture. Later on I graded it back to a 6 on the bottom as negative ease worked better with my fabric.

 

For the round wrap collar piece, I originally did the hemming by machine after pinning.

 

Constructing the collar took me a while, as it was my first time sewing a collar like this design.

 

Took a break from sewing, and came back to this – was confused for a moment. Sometimes it’s easier to do most of the sewing in one sitting, just so I keep my chain of thought.

 

Initially, this was the completed garment. I wasn’t happy with the way the collar hems sat. The fabric is too stiff for the intended draping effect at the shoulder and it stuck out. Also the hem puckered with machine stitching (I tried changing the tension, using ball needle too). Maybe a ponte would have worked better.

 

I’ve posted this on Instagram – I reduced the width of the collar, and hand-sewn the hems. (Left is before, Right is after)

 

My final version. It is a fitted dress, and probably short for average height people – for me (5’0″), it sat just above the knee without any shortening. Collar hems still not flat *sob* – probably because the fabric was thick, the shape was round, and hems folded over twice.

 

The back. I thought the back flap should sit flat as per the pattern envelope, but even in McCall’s official picture there is a wave at the back (see below), so I feel OK with that.

 

McCall’s official back view. Pic from here. (The original shoulder flap drapes nicely with a lighter knit)

 

We went to see the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. I wore my dress!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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8 thoughts on “Sew, Seoul Happy [McCall’s 7243].

  1. The dress turned out great, considering all the trouble that original collar gave you: good save! The shorter collar gives the front of the dress a very futuristic kind of look, almost like soft armor. I love the fabric you used too, it’s really interesting. (And looks nice and warm!) But I have to say that I freaked out when I saw your shoes: OMGGGGGGG. <3 them, and wish I had a pair. ;-)

    • The fabric was easy to sew as it was sturdy knit. But I had trouble with the curved collar hem, I couldn’t make it sit flat, whether machine or hand stitching (machine was worse).

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