Ruched Panelled Dress [McCall’s 7467].

I first started working on this dress in May 2018, more than a year ago. When I saw the pattern, with the ruched front panel and option to use contrast fabrics, it captured my attention. I also wanted to try sewing knits of different stretch together as a challenge. After a year (*ahem…*), I’ve finally finished this dress. My excuse is that, I was pregnant and I knew I wouldn’t fit in the dress until a while after I’ve given birth, so I abandoned it not long after I’ve started. But better late than never!

  • Pattern: McCall’s 7467, I made View D with View C collar.
  • Size made: A5: Sizes US6-14 included, I made size 6 in bust grading up to size 8 in the waist and hips.
  • Pattern pieces: 8 pieces of which 2 joins together. So final pieces =7. This is for View D + View C collar.
  • Fabric used:
    • Main fabric for side, back and sleeves: Double ponte knit [85% polyester, 12% rayon, 3% spandex], 147cm width, 1.5m length, made in China, bought from Spotlight.
    • Front ruched contrast fabric: Floral ITY (interlock twist yarn) [95% polyester, 5% elastane], 127cm width, 1.5cm length, made in China, bought from Spotlight.
  • New Techniques used: Sewing fabrics with different degrees of stretch together.
  • Modifications:
    • Omitted collar facing understitching, as the ITY fabric is so slinky and it wouldn’t have made a difference.
    • Reduced the sleeves by 6cm.
    • Hand-sewn sleeve and dress hems.
    • Graded the pattern from size 6 in bust to size 8 in waist and hips as mentioned above.
    • Top-stitched the collar edges.
Above: McCall’s 7467. I Initially wanted to make View D collar. However, the contrast ITY fabric I used (front panel, to be ruched), is very lightweight and I felt that View C collar is more appropriate. More explanation below. Pic from here.
Above: I used a dark purple sturdy double ponte knit (in background) and a drapey lightweight floral lilac/grey ITY knit.
Above: I made View D dress with View C collar. The ponte was used for the sleeves, the entirety of the back, and side panels of the dress front. The ITY was used for the collar and ruched front central panel. Pic from here. Initially I wanted to make View D with the stand-up collar. However, if I made the collar in ITY, it would be too droopy to stand up. If I had used ponte, the bodice neck edge (part of the central panel) being made in ITY, will not hold the heavier ponte. So the collar and central panel had to be made in the same fabric, and View C is the most appropriate.
Above: Eight pattern pieces, 2 were joined together, so that makes 7 pieces.
Above: For the central ruched panel, I gathered the ITY on both sides and then serged it to the ponte. It went surprisingly well. I left a length of ITY un-gathered towards the bottom of the skirt, as I would fold it back onto itself twice and sew the hem and I didn’t want extra bulk.
Above: The collar piece has 2 layers, sandwiching elastic on either side. I found it difficult to stretch out the elastic while stitching blind, and the stitching is supposed to land on the seam on both sides with elastic in between. I obviously didn’t do a good job, but it’s not obvious when worn.
Above: Collar attached to the dress. See below for the result.
Above: The collar is double layered and the bodice is single. I’ve asked the sewing community on Instagram about this and got some really helpful responses! This is the underside of the fold-down collar. The serged seam will be hidden when worn, but I was wondering if there is a neater way to finish the seam without affecting how the right side looks. A few suggestions include using closer colour matched thread, topstitching, and using decorative top thread. Bound seams could also work but would add bulk. I also think bound seams might be tricky, as the ITY is so slinky and slippery. In the end, I digested all the information, but since I’ve already packed away my machines, I left it as is.
Completed dress with hand-sewn sleeve and dress hems.
This dress has no zip or closures. Fabric must have enough stretch to pull-over (there is a stretch guide on the envelope).
I top-stitched the collar edges for a more defined look, as the ITY doesn’t have much body or structure to it.
The dress is pretty tight. Although the highly stretchable ITY and excess fabric created with the ruching would accommodate a bump, the ponte was quite firm. No way I would fit into it while I was pregnant. I stand by my decision to have abandoned the project until now :P (such self-justification).
Oops, I didn’t iron out the crease on the back…
At first I feared that the excess ITY fabric and horizontal gathers creating by the ruching would add bulk to the mid-section and lower body and might be less than flattering. Turns out it breaks up the lines and distracts the eye from lumps and bumps, while the heavier ponte adds a bit of structure and support to the sides and back.

Well, that was fun to make. It’s finally getting colder, so I guess my next project(s) would reflect that. Or, I’ll just work on more UFOs (unfinished objects)!

6 thoughts on “Ruched Panelled Dress [McCall’s 7467].

    1. Thanks so much Diane. I’m starting to understand the properties and behaviour of different fabrics a bit better. But still so much to learn!

  1. Gorgeous Sil! You look amazing in all of those photos and I love that dress. You nailed the fit! πŸ’œπŸ–€πŸ’œπŸ–€

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