Victory! [Ulysses Trench].

About a year ago, I posted a picture of the Victory Patterns Ulysses Trench official photo on my Instagram stories (see below). My non-sewing, very stylish friend saw it, and exclaimed that the design is very unique. I joked and offered sew it for us, and we can wear them out together. Amazingly, she said she would love that! So I embarked on this journey of sewing the Ulysses Trench.

 

Victory Patterns Ulysses Trench Sewing Pattern, one of the official photos. Pic from here.

 

I’ve seen many beautiful versions on Instagram. Just search on there using #Ulyssestrench , or “Ulysses trench” on google, and you get the idea. I love the clever design, especially the holes in the back rain guard forming the belt ‘loop’ for the waist sash. The drape of the bias-cut rain guard itself. The epaulets, the waterfall front opening. The fully bias bound seams. It’s basically a cardigan with trench coat elements. Everything appeals to me!

The only problem is, the pattern is drafted for 177cm height, and my friend and I are under 155cm – it is going to be way too long without adjustments. The good thing is, I need to buy less fabric than suggested by the pattern because of our height (lack thereof…). I bought tencel twill in two colours from Maaike Design, 3m each (the pattern calls for 3.6m). My friend chose teal green, and I chose golden ochre and matching threads.

 

 

  • Pattern: Victory Patterns Ulysses Trench, “Intermediate” level.
  • Size made: Included was Size XS-XL, I made size XS with mods.
  • Pattern pieces: 12 pieces.
  • Fabric used:
    • Tencel Twill [100% tencel, width 146cm, length 3m, unknown country of origin, bought from Maaike Design]. Note: the pattern asks for 3.6m length.
    • Lining is a mystery poly satin from my stash. Width 140cm, length 1.5m
  • New Techniques used:
    • First time making jacket back vent.
    • First time making epaulets.
    • Making my own bias binding.
    • Using Edge stitch foot for topstitching.
  • Modifications:
    • Shortened front and back by 5cm at waist.
    • Shortened 10cm from jacket length.
    • Rain guard overlay fabric and lining shortened by 5cm each.
    • Reduced front “dip” hem by 13cm tapering to nothing (‘nothing” being the already shortened length) at jacket back.
    • Sleeves shortened by 8cm.
    • Omitted belt buckle.

 

Line drawing of the Ulysses Trench. Pic from here.

 

So I started out tracing and shortening the pattern. Cut out fabric. And sew. Now being the procrastinating creature that I am, the above process took…a year. A YEAR! And that’s just making ONE trench coat, not both. Actual prepping and sewing time would have taken maybe a week intensively for one coat, but I spread it out to a year. Well, life got busy…

 

Twelve pattern pieces, already modified and cut out.

 

I took my time with each step, especially the pockets. They took a whole morning to make (3 full hours). I just sew so slow.

 

The pockets are lined, and have flaps above them.

 

This is an edge-joining foot I believe, but I used it like an Edge Stitch foot. It guides the topstitching for neat lines. Although mine is still wonky at places.

 

The pockets in place. I don’t really care for pockets in dresses, but I really want them in coats and pants.

 

Making the vent and using bias binding to finish the seams. The pattern includes bias binding pieces to cut out from the lining fabric. (The jacket is unlined but the overlay/rain guard is lined, and the bias binding are all made from the lining fabric).

 

Progress… I’ve only made my friend’s jacket. I don’t have the motivation to make my one after this…

 

Sides joined together.

 

Seams fully bound, it gives a neat finish. I also sewed my label in.

 

Completed Ulysses Trench. I kinda like how it takes 20s to load up these photos when the actual process took a year…

 

It can be worn belted and loose. This is tied up.

 

As this was a gift to my friend, I did not try it on and did not wear it to model photos. My mannequin is doing a great job here!

All folded up ready to be wrapped and gifted!

 

I can report that my friend likes it! Especially the fact that it actually fits and the sleeves aren’t too long – a common issue for us with ready-to-wear clothing.

Now my golden ochre tencel twill sits waiting for even longer…I wonder if I’ll sew it up one day?

 


2 thoughts on “Victory! [Ulysses Trench].

    1. I was only more productive because of the lockdown, and time off work! Now it’s slowly getting back to normal, and my less-than-productive sewing :P Thanks for visiting and commenting!

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